Some places stay at the top of your list for years, and India has always been one of mine. My moodboard is full of it, from the palaces of Rajasthan to the backwaters of Kerala, yet it always felt like somewhere I'd get to one day. I've long been drawn to India's colour, painted architecture and intricate block-printed textiles, as well as its rich heritage of craft and design.
This October, half term finally gave me the chance to go. Moving to Dubai has made it so much easier, with India only a 3.5-hour flight away, so I spent a week in Jaipur, the Pink City of Rajasthan. Here’s a run-down of my trip: where I stayed, what I wore, my favourite places to eat, the experiences I loved most and a few recommendations.
Where I stayed
I booked very last minute and nowhere had availability for the whole week, so I split my stay between two hotels. I loved it, honestly. I’m smitten by thoughtfully designed interiors and beautiful spaces, and staying in two hotels gave me two slightly different perspectives of the city.
I spent my first couple of nights at Rajan House, a guest house in the C-Scheme area, a part of the city that feels a little more modern, with plenty of cafés and restaurants close by. Pink bougainvillea sways lightly in the breeze around the arches of the house, and although the sound of horns is a constant backdrop in Jaipur, the guest house feels calm. The interiors are feminine and light.
It also has its own shop, The Raw India, run by designers Reena Rathore and Surbhi Sharma and full of cotton block-printed clothing and made-to-order textile pieces. In the morning I could see orders of fabric being sent out, so it felt like a working creative studio rather than a guest house shop. As someone drawn to craft and textiles, I loved getting a glimpse of how the designs travel from Jaipur to people’s homes and wardrobes. It was the perfect base for the start of my trip.
For my last couple of nights I moved to Abode, right in the heart of the Pink City. It’s a peaceful pocket set amid the busy streets of the old city, and the fabrics in the rooms feel bespoke and refined. My room felt quietly luxurious, with a slightly contemporary feel that contrasts with the timeworn streets outside. It was also ideally situated near the City Palace, meaning I could step outside and find myself among the bustling bazaars, palace walls and pink-washed streets within minutes.
What I wore
October is a lovely time to be in Jaipur, but the days are still warm, so I stuck to light, breathable fabrics for daytime sightseeing: loose linen trousers, cotton dresses and relaxed shirts that kept me cool while exploring the city.
For something a little dressier, I picked up a few pieces before moving to Dubai that feel effortless and luxurious at the same time. I love Dissh for its soft, minimal, elegant neutrals, and one of my favourite outfits of the trip was the Ida White Sleeveless Foldover Cami Top, paired with the Citara satin trousers in white from VRG GRL, a brand I like for its slightly more playful but modern silhouettes. I wore it for an evening dinner at The Servato, set inside the palace, where the cool cream of the satin looked crisp against the warm terracotta walls.
Where I ate
Now for the good stuff. Jaipur is full of markets and food stalls tucked into every corner of the old city, and you can try local treats like lassi, gulab jamun and masala chai kulfi, all of which I loved. Beyond the street food, here are my favourite places to eat from the trip, chosen for both the food and the setting:
Coffee and lunch
Doppler Coffee An ideal spot for coffee and lunch, with a modern, airy interior and really well-made coffee. It became my regular, a tucked-away haven for breakfast before the day began. I had their berry smoothies in the morning and came back for the lunch menu after a day exploring Jaipur.
Narain Niwas Palace A heritage property with traditional Rajasthani architecture, lush gardens and a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere. You can stay here, but I visited on the final day of my trip, when all I wanted was a slow afternoon by the pool, so that’s exactly what I did. I spent a few hours swimming, reading and soaking up the surroundings, followed by lunch. It was a perfect way to spend a more leisurely afternoon in Jaipur.
Jaipur Modern, Store & Kitchen Part restaurant, part concept store, this is a great spot to discover contemporary Indian design, traditional textiles and exquisitely crafted clothing made by studios local to the city. But the food in the Bistro is just as good, I had the pesto gnocchi, which was light, fresh and delicious.
For dinner
Baradari Restaurant & Bar Tucked within the royal palace walls, Baradari has a stunning setting. It's described as Italian, but I'd call it Italian fusion, as the menu covers a range of cuisines. I had the chicken tikka masala with a couple of starters, and it was a standout experience from my trip.
The Sarvato Up a set of winding stairs just after Baradari, The Sarvato was one of the most elegant restaurants I visited on my trip. Expect a lavish meal, with tasting menus of four to seven courses and a cocktail menu that’s just as special.
Peacock Rooftop Restaurant Traditional music is played most evenings, which set the tone for the whole night. The rooftop setting is atmospheric, the food was delicious, and it was two seconds from my hotel in the C-Scheme area.
What I found and brought home:
Jaipur has a great array of independent boutiques and textile shops, and one of my favourites for homeware and fabrics was Cottons Jaipur, tucked away on Bhawani Singh Lane in the leafy C-Scheme neighbourhood. It’s a lovely area to spend an afternoon, with concept stores and design boutiques dotted along the surrounding streets, including Indiehouse, Anokhi and Idli.
I came home with a block-printed indigo blanket and some incredible table linen, with delicate floral motifs in soft colours. They were exactly the sort of pieces I’d hoped to find in Jaipur.
Another place I would strongly recommend is Nila House, a beautifully considered space on Prithviraj Road dedicated to preserving and celebrating India's textile traditions. The collection brings together indigo-dyed fabrics, handcrafted homeware and paper goods, with an emphasis on natural materials and traditional techniques. A lovely place to explore if you have an appreciation for craft and design.
Favourite experiences and personal recommendations:
One of the highlights of my trip was visiting some of Jaipur’s textile and jewellery warehouses with my guide. We explored a variety of workshops and suppliers, and it was captivating to see the materials, techniques and skill behind everything being made.
Another favourite experience was exploring Amber Fort, with its intricate detailing and sweeping courtyards. You can also walk from Amber Fort up to Jaigarh Fort, following a hillside route with views across the surrounding Aravalli Hills. I had planned to do this one morning, but unfortunately the rain had other ideas. It’s something I’d love to return for.
I also took a day trip to Bagru, a village just outside Jaipur, renowned for its centuries-old traditions of hand block printing and indigo dyeing. Behind seemingly unassuming buildings are workshops and family-run studios where these techniques have been practised and passed down through generations. It was special to see the craftsmanship first-hand, from the carved wooden printing blocks to the preparation of dyes and lengths of printed fabric.
One memorable stop was Bagru Textiles, founded by Vijendra Chhipa, a fifth-generation master block printer. His work is rooted in generations of family knowledge, with a focus on natural dyes, traditional printing techniques and supporting the local artisan community.
If you’re interested in textiles, traditional crafts or design, I’d encourage you to venture beyond the usual tourist attractions and visit some of these workshops. There’s something quite special about seeing the people, processes and generations of knowledge behind the things we so often admire in shops.
My final recommendation
Start your days early. Jaipur is a busy, colourful city, and there’s something special about experiencing it in the quieter morning hours, before the streets fill up and the afternoon heat sets in. If you're travelling solo, particularly as a woman, I'd also highly recommend booking a local driver or guide. I arranged one for the duration of my trip, and it made exploring the city so much easier and more enjoyable. My guide, Ali, was wonderful. He was knowledgeable, attentive and full of recommendations, taking me to places I might never have discovered on my own. Most importantly, he made sure I felt safe and comfortable throughout my stay, which made such a difference when navigating a new city. You can find and book local guides through GetYourGuide.
And that's my Jaipur round-up! A wonderful week filled with beautiful places, incredible craftsmanship and plenty of inspiration to bring home. I'd love to know if you've been, or if India is somewhere on your travel list. Leave me a comment with your favourite recommendations.
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