Hydra — A Personal Edit
I tend to wake early when I travel, drawn to the stillness before the day begins. It’s in these moments that a place reveals itself more quietly.
In Hydra, mornings are defined by the gentle sound of hooves. With no cars, mules and donkeys move through the streets, setting a slower pace. In an instant, the day begins to shift—boats arriving into the port with the week’s trade and visitors to the island.
Most mornings began at Papagalos, sitting by the harbour with a coffee, watching the island wake. Travelling through Greece during Easter, and returning again to Hydra, I found myself noting the places I kept coming back to—small, personal favourites that felt worth sharing.
I’ve always been drawn to Greek food. It feels effortless in the best way—simple ingredients, thoughtfully prepared, and closely tied to everyday life. Truthfully, I think I could live off tzatziki and Greek salad without much complaint for the rest of my life.
It’s part of the reason I’m careful with recommendations. Where you eat shapes how you experience a place, and I like to share only the places that felt genuinely worth returning to. With that in mind, here are a few favourites I’ve come to know over time, along with some more recent discoveries from this trip.
Just a short walk from the port, Ostria is tucked up a small side street, easy to miss if you’re not looking for it. My mum and dad always used to say that a handwritten menu is a good sign, and it’s something I still find myself drawn to. At Ostria, everything feels personal. The husband fishes each morning, and much of what returns with him ends up on the menu that evening, while his wife runs the front of house with a warm, unmistakably Greek hospitality. I ordered fritters here with tzatziki, and they did not disappoint.
A more recent discovery, Lefterakis Taverna sits on the quieter edge of the island at Mandraki Beach, its tables placed along a pebbled shoreline with open views to the sea. The food is simple and thoughtful—fresh seafood, prepared without fuss—and the service is warm and relaxed. I found it to be a particularly beautiful spot for lunch, when the light reaches this side of the island.
Annita Ydra, just a short walk from my hotel, became an easy place to return to. The food feels rooted in tradition—simple, wholesome, and reminiscent of home cooking. There’s something about it that brings to mind a Greek yiayia’s kitchen, whether or not you ever see her. Expect classic dishes—moussaka, pastichio, dolmades—and beautifully grilled fish, all prepared with a quiet sense of care.
Sunset Restaurant offers one of the most beautiful settings on the island. As the sun lowers over the neighbouring islands, the light softens and the day begins to slow around you. There’s no real need to rush away from it—it’s a place that encourages you to stay a little longer.
Taverna Christina is located around a ten-minute walk from the port, near Kamini Beach, on a quieter stretch of the island. The walk itself is one of the most beautiful—following the southern edge of Hydra, with small beaches appearing along the way. While it doesn’t have a direct sea view, the food is traditional, generous, and thoughtfully prepared. A lovely place to stop if you find yourself exploring this side of the island.
For a drink, evenings in Hydra tend to gather around the port, where the last of the sunlight lingers across the harbour. The Corner Restaurant, Isalos Café, and Café Grande sit at the entrance to the port, perfectly placed to catch that final light. During the day, they can feel a little busy—a firm favourite for locals and visitors stepping off the ferry—but as evening settles, they become much easier to enjoy; a simple place to sit with a drink and watch the harbour shift into night.
In truth each time I have visited Hydra has left the same feeling of calm and ease.
